Last summer, my friend Maureen told us about a hike her friend had done in Spain, called the Cami de Ronda. where we interested? Of course we are! So that Sunday afternoon I start doing some research, create a trip in Triphub and add some hikes and hotels to the trip board. We talk about it more during some of our weekly hikes. In November we decide on dates, and I start mapping out the routes and hotels along the way. A year after our first conversation, we are about to embark on hiking the Cami de Ronda: Begur – Toroella de Montgri. Day 2, August 23, 2025. 15 miles, 780 feet elevation
Hotel Ondina – Begur
We leave the hotel at 7.30, as we have a long day ahead of us. From our hotel, we start with a steep hike up along the road to Begur. One bonus of starting early is being able to see the sunrise over the Mediterranean. The views also distract from the uphill trek. We stop at the Spar in Begur for coffee and fresh baked croissants and pastries. I am not used to a nice Spar like this.
Begur – Pals
We continue through Begur, until we hit the beginning of the trail to Pals. It’s a beautiful trail through the woods and farmlands. We reach Pals at 11am, time for coffee at Antic Casino. They make the best coffees in Spain. We have another great ice coffee. Maybe not as good as the pistachio one in Barcelona, but a close second.
Pals – Gualta
The route takes us through the beautiful historic town of Pals.
From Pals, we walk along country roads. It is getting hotter. We arrive in FontClara. From there, the route is along miles and miles of apple orchards. It is middle of the day, the sun is burning, the landscape boring and there is no escaping, no shade. Arriving in the next town, Fontanilles, we are so ready for a cold drink. So, we are relieved when we see a sign for a restaurant. Unfortunately, it is closed. After a quick break with nuts and dried fruit we bought in the Mercado in Barcelona, we power on. Next stop Gualta.
Gualta – Toroella de Montgri
The first thing we see when we enter the village of Gualta is a little cafe is called El Obrador de La Marida – the husband’s workshop – with a sign that says “Affogato”. To us it feels like a gift from heaven. We are hot, we are tired, so what can be better than a cup full of hazelnut ice-cream, covered in coffee??. It is a cup full of deliciousness and a work of art and exactly what we need. Although too much, it gives us the cold refreshment, the sugar and caffeine we need to finish the last couple of miles of our hike.
With a spring in our step (I promised not to share the video), we continue through the cute little town over the bridge, and back along the fields. Our destination is only a couple more miles, we got this.
Moli de Mig
Finally,we enter the beautiful grounds of Moli del Mig, an old mill from the 15th century, turned into a boutique hotel. We must look hot and tired as the lady at the reception offers us the spa services and we are more than happy to comply. So, 15 minutes later, we enjoy the Turkish shower, the steam room and jacuzzi. After that, we laze around by the pool for a couple of hours, before having a nice dinner on the hotel patio.
Tips
Most hotels don’t serve breakfast till 8 or 9. A local Spar is a good option for fresh coffee and pastries. If you are tired and hot, the best medicine is a cold affogato. If you don’t want to carry all your luggage, Taxi en Roses has a great luggage service. You can book all segments online, where they verify your hotel is on their list.
All photos are credit to Liane Aihara, Maureen OGorman and Mariel van Tatenhove
