Visit Glacier National Park Before It’s Gone
During last year’s glamping trip to Sequoia National Park, we agree we want to make glamping a yearly event. So for this year’s destination, we decide to go to Glacier National Park.
As the predictions are that by 2030, there won’t be any Glaciers, only mountain lakes, now is the time to visit Glacier. Below you can read more about our fantastic 3 days of glamping in Glacier National Park.
San Francisco Airport To Kalispell International Airport
It is an easy two and half hour flight from San Francisco airport to Kalispell International airport. Arriving at the small airport, we are surprised by the “International”. However, as we are close to Canada, we assume there are flights to and from there.
After taking the token pictures with the bear in the arrivals hall, we pick up our car at Dollar.
It takes us a bit of negotiating. Because between Priceline and Dollar, the 7-person car we booked, changed to a 5-person one. As there are 6 of us and luggage, that is a problem. But thankfully, Dollar is very accommodating and soon, we are on our way in our Ford Explorer.
Lunch That Made Our Day
We enjoy a late but great lunch at the local Backslope Brewery in Columbia Falls, recommended by our guy at Dollar.
Although the food is good, the beer menu wins: there are beers named Lawn Mower, Been Untrue, and Pillow Fight.
Glamping In Treehouse Tents
We are staying in Under Canvas, a chain of luxury tented camps. As it is only 25 minutes from the airport and 7 miles from the park entrance, the location is ideal. We have stayed in the one in Zion, but I am particularly excited about this one, as it has treehouse tents.
The only other time I have stayed in a treehouse tent was in Tarangire, Tanzania. Once checked in, we walk to our tents, while a staff member drives up our luggage in a golf cart. The tents are awesome with a comfortable king bed, toilet, sink, and a shower with hot water.
This results in camping with the luxury of a 4-star hotel. After quickly unpacking, we head down to the campfire area and soon we are settled in the comfortable chairs and open a bottle of wine.
We end the night playing “hearts” while enjoying cheese, charcuterie, and other snacks. We are off to a great start.
Going-To-The-Sun-Road
Permits for the west entrance of the park are hard to get and we were lucky to snag one up the day before. So to make the most of our day, we get up early and have breakfast at the café. Conveniently, they also can make us sandwiches for lunch.
Once we enter the park, we get a first glimpse of the beauty of Glacier when we reach Lake MacDonald. From there, we follow the lake. We notice it is very hazy, which apparently is caused by two nearby wildfires. It takes us just over an hour to get to Logan Pass, where the trail starts.
We stop a couple of times to take pictures of the beautiful steep mountain peaks and glaciers. Unfortunately, when we reach the parking lot, it is full. As a result, we have to park a mile and a half down the road and hike back up. All good, we have all day.
The Highline Trail
We are planning to do the Highline trail, the number one hike in Glacier. The trail goes from Logan Pass to the Loop, with a side trail to an overlook over the Grinnell Glacier, the other hike I have on my list.
The Ledge
It is 10.30 and already hot when we start our hike. As a result, our layers are shedding quickly. The trail follows along the Continental Divide and soon after the start, we arrive at the part of the trail known as the ledge as it feels like the trail is hanging like a shelf of the wall.
It is narrow, at some places only about 6 feet wide and we have to go in single file. However, it is worth it, as the views are breathtaking, although sometimes terrifying as there are drop-offs of more than a hundred feet.
Although this stretch is short, it feels like it never ends. At the beginning of the ledge, we meet Bryce.
We learn that Bryce is hiking by himself, so we invite him to join us. As we tell him, hiking with a group is nicer than hiking on your own, but with us is awesome. He must agree, as he sticks with us all day.
The Garden Wall And Haystack Pass
The trail continues, opens up, and flattens out. We now walk along the slopes of the Garden Wall. At some point, other hikers point at a distant object, supposedly a Longhorn sheep, although we are not able to spot it.
After a short break to refuel on peaches and chocolate biscuits, we continue and begin the climb up to Haystack Pass.
Finally, we reach the top, where we break for lunch, with beautiful views over the valley. Our goal was to make it to the overlook, before turning back. We look at the map and try to calculate how much longer.
But we also realize we have an option to continue to The Granite Park Chalet, just under a mile beyond the path that goes to the overlook. From the Chalet, it is just a 4 mile downhill to the end of the trail. And from there we can take a shuttle bus back.
Granite Park To The Garden Wall Trail
We start descending towards Granite Park. We have now hiked for close to 4 hours and are 6.5 miles in.
Because of this, some are worried that if we continue on we might not make the shuttle in time, some feel we are so close to the Overlook to the Grinnell Glacier, that it would be a shame to turn around.
So we split up, 4 turn around to go back the way we came, and three of us continue on, hoping to make it to the Overlook. We reach the junction with the Garden Wall trail. It is 3.30 now. Although the trail to the Overlook is less than a mile, it is a steep climb up to 900 feet.
Other hikers tell us it took them an hour up and 40 minutes down.
The Granite Chalet
As much as we want to do it, we are worried about missing the last shuttle. So regretfully, we have to decide to be smart and to continue on towards the Chalet. We climb for another .8 of a mile before we reach The Chalet.
The Chalet was built by the Great Northern Railway to provide backcountry accommodations in the park.
There are 12 guestrooms. We decide that next time, we hike the 4 miles up from the Loop, stay the night, and hike to the Overlook the next morning. We continue the 4 miles downhill from the Chalet.
Instead of hiking along the sheer granite walls, we hike through a pine forest. After we leave the pine forest, the trail opens up again, giving us spectacular views of Heavens Peak.
Finally, after 7 hours and 12.5 miles, we reach the Loop. Tired but satisfied, we wait for the shuttle to bring us back to Logan Pass. And to our surprise and delight, the others get down the trail, just as we get off the bus. We could not have planned it better.
Lake MacDonald and Red Rock Falls
The next morning, we decide to take it easy after our long hike the day before. So we drive to Apgar at the south end of Lake MacDonald, where we rent kayaks. We peddle around Lake Macdonald for a couple of hours, before having lunch at Eddies Cafe.
I have a lovely salad. But the highlights of the menu are the Huckleberry cocktails: the Apgar Gin Fizz, the Huckleberry Cobbler, and Huckleberry Margarita. Needless to say that huckleberry is a thing here.
After lunch, we are ready for the short hike we had planned to Hidden Lake overlook. So we drive back to Logan Pass, assuming that we won’t have a problem parking in the afternoon. But we are wrong, all the parking lots are full. So disappointed we drive back down.
However, on the drive back, we happen to stumble upon Red Rock Falls, a beautiful waterfall and rock pool. Some are brave enough to jump in. Not me, I hate cold water – and this one is freezing, coming straight from the glaciers- so only my feet get in.
But the place is beautiful and we stay until the sun disappears behind the mountains.
Dining in Coram Montana
The First Night, First Try
When we get back to town after our long hike on the first day, it is already dark. So instead of going back to shower, we decide to go straight to dinner. Just outside the park, we find a nice restaurant called Belton Grill Dining Room and tap.
The place looks warm and quaint with nice food, according to the menu.
As it is already 8 pm, we are starving. We walk in and are encouraged by the sign of the locals but above all, several open tables. However, when we ask the host for a table for 6, he tells us to wait.
On his return, he tells us he cannot seat us, as they are out of food. So we stare at him, thinking he is joking.
But apparently, he is not. As Aevanne, really wants to have the trout we saw on the menu, she tries to make a reservation for the next night. But all she manages to get is a confusing “maybe. We do take reservations, but we cannot guarantee it”.
It is good that we have also put our name down in the next door Glacier Highland restaurant. They also have trout, and it is delicious.
The Second Night, The Second Try
So the next morning I try to make reservations at Belton Grill again. And again, no luck. However, after we return from the park, we decide to try one more time. As it is only 6, we plan to go back to camp first for a quick shower.
I walk in and ask the same host from yesterday if we can make a reservation for 7 o’clock. He tells me he has a 6-top table available now.
I ask him if we can reserve it for an hour from now. But of course, like he said yesterday, he can’t guarantee it. Upon telling the others, we decide to take the table now.
But when we walk in less than 5 minutes later, asking him for that table, we are told that the table is available but there are not enough people to serve us.
I stare at him in disbelief. Maybe they don’t like that we are dressed in our hiking clothes or maybe they don’t like strangers. Either way, the result is that we are turned down for the second night in a row.
It’s A Shit-Show Today
Because we are turned down again at Belton Grill, we drive to Paul Bunyan Bar and Grill. We arrive at 6.30 and at least they welcome us and show us to a table. While looking at the menu, we order drinks. When our drinks arrive, we order food.
We want a quick dinner before going back to our camp to have a nightcap at the campfire. While waiting for our food, we order another drink. It’s been an hour and still no food, although we see people who arrived after us already eating dinner. So we call our waitress to ask where our food is.
She is flustered and says it is coming. Although we ask again, an hour and a half later and still no food. Now we wonder if indeed they don’t like foreigners in local joints. So we order more drinks and finally, our food arrives. We are irritated, but feel sorry for our waitress.
Afterward, when the bill comes, we tip our waitress, telling her it is not her fault and that we appreciate her effort. Then the manager comes out. She slaps down her tray on our table stating “I am sorry, it was a total shit-show today.”
Continuing to explain that the cook walked out at lunchtime. As a result, the maintenance guy and dishwasher had to cook tonight. She then says “I gained 20 pounds since starting the job.
” To which Vanessa asks “is it the stress”? She answers “no, the food…”. As a result of this hilarious conversation, we are in stitches and no longer irritated.
“I gained 20 pounds since I started this job. No, it is not the stress, it is the food”
You can’t make this shit up and all things considered, the food wasn’t bad either, when in fact there was no cook.
Summary
Certainly, Glacier National Park is a must. However, when planning a trip make sure you plan ahead, especially when planning to visit the west side and going-to-the-sun road. For sure, try to book permits the day they become available, early in the year.
In addition, make sure you double-check your car reservations, and the number of people it can take. Also, try to make restaurant reservations in advance and when you get to the restaurant, double-check that the cook didn’t quit.
I am sure I will be back from more 3-day glamping trips in Glacier National Park, but next time, I might try the East side or the Canadian side, to avoid the crowds.
All Photo credit Tammy Bacca, Rhona Snyman, Seema O'Dwyer, Vanessa O'Keeffe, Aevanne Ni'Sheoighe, Mariel van Tatenhove
