Mariel's Travels

Torres del Paine – Grey Lake Trek

Patagonia has been on my bucket list for years, and this March, that dream finally becomes a reality. After more than a year of planning, the six of us travel to Patagonia in March 2025, ready for an unforgettable adventure. Our journey begins in Chile, with stops in Punta Arenas, Magdalena Island, and Torres del Paine. From there, we cross into Argentina to visit El Calafate and witness the breathtaking Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park. Day six brings one of the highlights of the trip: Torres del Paine – the Grey Lake Trek to Grey Glacier.

The best and most beautiful things in the world cannot be seen or even touched. They must be felt with the heart – Helen Keller

 

Lake Pehoe Catamaran

We leave camp at 8:45 a.m., and just twenty minutes later—after a quick photo stop—we enter the park. The scenery along the way is nothing short of spectacular: vivid blue/green lakes framed by towering mountain peaks. We find ourselves glued to our cameras.

By 10:15 a.m., we arrive at the boat dock, where a long line has already formed. Fortunately, Juan, our guide, leads us straight to the front—one of the perks of having a private tour. We also purchased our tickets several months before, something I highly recommend. A few groans ripple through the crowd, but we’re too excited to mind. The water is crystal clear, and with the sun climbing higher, the day is already warming up.

The catamaran ride lasts about thirty minutes and offers incredible views of the iconic peaks: Cuernos del Paine, Monte Almirante Nieto, and Paine Grande. Even the view from the toilet is awesome. It’s a stunning introduction to the landscape we’re about to explore on foot.

Laguno de Patos

After disembarking and grabbing our hiking poles, we begin the trek toward the glacier. The trail is mostly “Patagonia flat”—a mix of gentle ups and downs with the occasional incline. As we climb, we’re reminded to look back often; some of the most breathtaking views are behind us, overlooking the shimmering lake.

Our first stop is Laguna de Patos—“Lagoon of Ducks.” Beyond the deep blue water, we catch our first glimpse of snow-capped glacier peaks in the distance. It feels like we’re getting closer to something extraordinary.

Grey Glacier

We continue on, stopping frequently for photos as each turn reveals another incredible vista. Around 2:00 p.m., we reach our destination: the lookout point over Grey Glacier.

The view is nothing short of awe-inspiring. The massive glacier stretches roughly 25 kilometers, flowing down into the lake below. Juan shares a sobering fact—the glacier has receded more in the past twenty years than it had in the previous million. It’s a stark reminder of how quickly this landscape is changing.

We sit down to enjoy lunch, soaking in the moment. A couple of falcons circle overhead, regularly sitting down close to us, eyeing our food and hoping for an easy snack.

Hora Feliz

After lunch, we pick up the pace for the return hike—we have a boat to catch. We make it just in time for the 5:00 p.m. departure. Waiting for us on the other side is Rosa, our driver, with a perfect surprise: “hora feliz”—cold beers, cheese, and cured meats. Satisfied we return to Patagonia Camp for another fantastic dinner.

A trek to one of Patagonia’s glaciers was one of the main reasons I wanted to make this trip, and it exceeded every expectation. The hike, the views, and the overall experience are difficult to capture in words. Even with incredible photos, nothing truly compares to being there in person. I already know I want to come back for more hikes in Torres del Paine.

All Photo credit Liane Aihara, Tricia Jagt, Bina Motiram, Seema O'Dwyer, Maureen OGorman, Mariel van Tatenhove
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