It is mid October and the last day of our trip to Northern Portugal. We spent a few wonderful days in Porto followed by a another few in the Duoro wine region, where we had lot of great food and wine. This morning we drive from our fantastic house in Santa Marinho do Zezere back to Porto. For the final day, I have booked a special restaurant: Casa De Cha Da Boa Nova. A famous 2 Michelin star restaurant: we are in for a lunch in Porto to remember.
When I planned our trip, this restaurant was one that was highly recommended by several food and travel sites. When I checked with my friend Mandi, she and her friends had been there a couple of years before. She told me it was fantastic. Reservations are not easy to get. However, our last day is on Tuesday, and after several calls, I manage to get one for lunch. As a result, just before 2PM on a cloudy Tuesday afternoon, we arrive at Casa De Cha Da Boa Nova.
The history
Casa de Chá da Boa Nova (Boa Nova Tea House) was designed following a competition held by Matosinhos in 1956, which was won by architect Fernando Távora. After winning, he handed over the design to a young coworker, Álvaro Siza. The building overlooking the sea was one of his first works and later made a National Monument. First opened as a teahouse, in 2014 it changed into a restaurant. Under chef Rui Paula It got its two Michelin Stars in 2016 for the first time and till today is a two Michelin star restaurant.
The Menu
The full menu online shows 21 courses. When I make the reservation, they ask me whether we want the 6 course or the 12 course. I opt for the six course as twelve feels very heavy for an afternoon. I am glad I did as even the six-course menu ends up being more like 10 and takes us 3 hours. The restaurant is by the sea, so no wonder the whole menu is focused on seafood.
The Experience
How it starts
We are brought to our table in the main dining room with a full view of the ocean. Unfortunately, today is a cloudy day, but still, the views are stunning. So is the environment. Nicely laid out tables, impeccably dressed wait staff. We sit down. I am curious about the little black box next to me. Curiosity kills the cat, and I am scolded by our waiter when he sees that my curiosity spoiled the experience. Don’t be like me, wait for the experience. After consulting with the sommelier, Eugene selects a local white wine to start with and the waiters bring our first dish, that is not even on the menu: a black piece of bread charcoal baked on a stone dish. Initially we are not sure, however, it is delicious and unlike you would expect, it does not taste burned. The chef has to make some changes to our menu due to my lemon/lime allergy, but after some back and forth we have a plan.
We read the first of four comics they put on the table, telling the story of Portuguese cuisine. The waiters place a little glass next to each one of our plates, with what looks like uncooked dough. It is uncooked bread dough, which has to rise before it will be cooked. Several more dishes follow, including the Oyster and Tuna, Scallop & Crab and Seabass in its habitat, served in cute little boats as well as several extra dishes.
While we are eating, the dough has been rising. And while Eugene consults with the sommelier about the next wine, one of the waiters is baking our bread in extremely hot stone pots (400 degrees C). The bread is soft, hot and delicious.
The middle
The feast continues. Our next dishes are scarlet shrimp with white asparagus (although it is that it says it has white asparagus or I would have missed it), crawfish in Korean soup and John Dory with razor clam. Again, in between several dishes to cleanse our pallet, making it feel like the different dishes and flavors never end. The Portuguese chilled red wine is a great pairing.
The finale
I don’t think I can eat anymore, but next is the Hake Kafir chocolate, a delicious mix of sweet and savory. We ate sure this is it, but what follows is coffee or tea with an assortment of sweets.
Summary
This is not just a meal; this is a culinary adventure. A journey of history, food, culture and art…. It is an afternoon of experiencing and enjoying the tastes of Portugal, the taste of the sea. And not only is the food wonderful, but the staff is too. Professional, friendly and attentive, they go out of their way to make sure we have a special afternoon. When I booked it, my assumption was right when I said: we are in for a lunch in Porto to remember. Our lunch at Casa De Cha Da Boa Nova is definitely in my top of list of culinary adventures, and I highly recommend it for any foody visiting Porto
All picture credit: Eugene van Bergen, Govert de Vries, Hiske de Jong, Lydia Schoemakers Mieko Kusano, Mariel van Tatenhove