A Friday Escape to Panlong Water Town
A Historic Haven Beyond the High Rises
Work wraps early on Friday, and my colleague Nancy suggests we head to Panlong, a “water town” west of Shanghai, just past Hongqiao Airport. With rush hour still a few hours away, the drive is smooth. We park underground and step into a different world.
Nancy explains the concept of water towns — small settlements built along rivers, designed for leisurely living and connection to nature. Panlong itself dates back more than 1,400 years to the Sui and Tang dynasties. Declared a Historical and Cultural Style Preservation Area in 2008, it underwent a major restoration in 2023, reviving its ancient bridges (including the Xianghua and Fenglai bridges), canals, and traditional architecture.
Bridges, Boats, and a Slice of Serenity
We wander through narrow lanes, crossing stone bridges and peeking into small artisan shops. A boat ride feels mandatory in a place like this. The river is alive — kayakers zigzagging, some confidently moving forward, others spinning in circles as they attempt their first strokes. We drift past a small floating market before stepping back onto land.
Children feed ducks and geese near the market stalls, and the whole area feels like a pocket of calm tucked inside a megacity of glass towers.
Dinner by the Water
Nancy leads us to a waterfront restaurant for an early dinner. I order a raspberry sparkling water — cold, tart, perfect for the humid afternoon. She chooses several Hunan dishes, famous for their spicy, sour punch: pork soup, fried chicken, and crisp local vegetables. We eat slowly, watching boats glide by as the sun softens into evening.
Saturday Morning: The Old Shanghai
City God Temple & Yuyuan Garden
The next day, after a nice breakfast at The Portman Ritz Carlton, I head out early. My Didi drops me near the City God Temple (Chenghuangmiao), a sprawling sanctuary originally built in 1577. Since I’m already here, I decide to explore.
The temple complex is beautiful — ornate roofs, red pillars, winding canals — and already buzzing with visitors. I weave through the crowds toward the entrance of Yuyuan Garden. Thank goodness for Alipay; neither Google Wallet nor cash is accepted.
The gardens are stunning, but the Saturday crowds make it hard to linger. After about 30 minutes, I decide to move on and call another Didi.
A New Icon: Louis Vuitton’s “The Louis”
A few months ago, I learned about The Louis — Louis Vuitton’s 1,600 square meter, three-story space shaped like a ship. It houses a boutique, Le Café Louis Vuitton, and the Visionary Journeys exhibition. As soon as I knew I’d be in Shanghai, I registered on MYLV through WeChat to secure a ticket.
Stepping Into the Journey
My Didi drops me at the base of the massive ship like structure. My reservation is at 11 and I am early so I circle it, taking photos, until they let me in at 10:45.
The entrance is a tunnel lined with original LV trunks — the very pieces that launched the brand in 1854. The next rooms trace the evolution of travel and luggage: from steamships to railways to automobiles, each era reflected in the design of LV’s cases and bags.
Perfume, Sports, and Fashion Fantasy
A wall of perfume bottles marks the next chapter, followed by a gallery of LV’s intersections with sports — NBA and FIFA bags, trophy cases for the World Cup, F1, and more. The final room feels like stepping backstage at a fashion show: gowns, suits, and dresses displayed like sculptures.
The Store & the LV Café
Naturally, the exit leads through the store. Shoppers leave with armfuls of LV bags. I admire a keychain shaped like the original trunk — $1,500 — and a cream handbag I fall in love with — $2,500. Not today.
I head upstairs to the LV Café, only to learn they’re fully booked for the entire weekend.
Back to the Old: Wandering the French Concession
I leave The Louis and walk toward my favorite part of Shanghai: the former French Concession. From 1849 to 1943, this district was under French administration, and its European style villas and tree-lined boulevards still remain. Today, they house boutiques, galleries, and — most notably — endless coffee shops. Some have lines stretching down the block.
I find a stylish café and order a coconut latte. Again, thank God for Alipay; even here, my Visa card is useless.
A Nostalgic Detour to Sasha’s
Caffeinated and curious, I continue walking. I remember dinners at Sasha’s years ago — a restaurant housed in the former residence of the Soong family. The three Soong sisters famously shaped modern Chinese history:
- Soong Ching-ling, who married Sun Yat-sen and became a revered political figure
- Soong May-ling, who married Chiang Kai-shek
- Soong Ai-ling, whose husband served as finance minister
When I arrive, I’m disappointed to find Sasha’s gone, replaced by a Creed fragrance experience.
By now, the drizzle has turned into a full rain shower. I call a Didi and head back to the Portman Ritz-Carlton.
A Short Trip, A Lasting Impression
The next morning, I’m on a plane to Shenzhen. But these 36 hours reminded me why Shanghai is one not only of the world’s most fascinating cities — a place where centuries old bridges and futuristic fashion ships coexist, where history and innovation live side by side, but one of my favorite ones, where, no matter how long I’ve been away, I always find something new waiting to be discovered.